When you think of ‘Haute Horlogerie,’ Cartier might not be the first brand that comes to mind. However, Cartier has evolved into a serious watchmaker with a rich history and exceptional expertise in jewelry and gem setting. In fact, Cartier is now recognized as one of the top-selling Swiss brands, often ranking second or third after Rolex.
While Cartier is primarily known for its fine jewelry, its watches have also gained worldwide recognition. With their iconic timepieces becoming highly sought after and collectible, you can sell your Cartier watch with confidence. Let’s explore how Cartier has steadily established itself as a prominent name in watchmaking over the years.
The History of Cartier
In 1874, Louis-Francois Cartier founded the company ‘Cartier’ in Paris, France, during the tumultuous period of the French Revolution. In its early years, the brand built a strong reputation by catering to the luxurious tastes of society’s elites. When Louis-Francois Cartier’s son and grandsons later joined the business, they brought fresh ideas that quickly propelled the company to fame.
In 1904, Cartier created the ‘Santos’ watch for his friend and Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont, though it didn’t hit the market until 1911. In 1907, Cartier formed a partnership with Edmond Jaeger, who provided the movements for Cartier’s exclusive wristwatches. That same year, Cartier expanded internationally, opening boutiques in New York City, London, and St. Petersburg, further establishing its global presence. Over time, Cartier became one of the world’s most successful and renowned watchmakers.
The King of ‘Haute joaillerie’
In 2008, Cartier made a bold move in the luxury watch industry by introducing its first-ever Geneva Seal watch – the Cartier Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon. Surprisingly, Cartier had no history of producing in-house mechanical movements, nor did it have any roots in Geneva, a key requirement for earning the prestigious ‘Poinçon de Genève.’ This might leave you wondering:
How Did Cartier Earn The Geneva Seal?
Richemont SA, Cartier’s parent company, acquired the production facilities of Roger Dubuis Manufacture in Geneva, which specialized in crafting movements with the prestigious Geneva Seal. They swiftly set up operations within the Dubuis facility, installing a team of ten expert watchmakers.
The Flying Tourbillon calibre 9452 MC was based on a Roger Dubuis design, raising questions about whether the craftsmanship behind the Ballon Bleu was truly Cartier’s or Dubuis’s. However, Cartier soon established itself as a genuine player in the world of mechanical movement making, with serious ambitions in haute horology.
Cartier quickly strengthened its position in the high-end men’s mechanical watch market, launching 17 new men’s mechanical watches and nine entirely new movements, including another Geneva Seal movement. Notably, six of these movements were designed, developed, and produced entirely in Cartier’s large watchmaking facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Among these, the first in-house movement was the automatic calibre 1904 MC, which became the foundation for Cartier’s future mechanical watches, including those with complications. One of Cartier’s most groundbreaking creations was the Cartier ID One, likely the first watch in the world that never requires adjustment.
This watch introduced innovative features like a carbon-crystal balance wheel and Zerodur hairsprings. Another concept watch, the Cartier ID Two, became the world’s first high-efficiency timepiece, using less energy while storing and distributing it more effectively. With new materials, mechanical innovations, and a 32-day power reserve, Cartier showcased its forward-thinking approach to watchmaking.
These advancements left watch enthusiasts and collectors both impressed and intrigued. Many had previously associated Cartier primarily with women’s jewelry and handbags, leading them to wonder how the brand had managed to create such remarkable high-mechanical timepieces.
A New Chapter in Cartier Watch History
Cartier executives have acknowledged that the brand is currently the world’s leading producer of jewelry timepieces, particularly for women. In the United States, for example, women’s models account for about two-thirds of Cartier’s watch sales. Despite this, they recognized the need to produce mechanical movements to uphold Cartier’s reputation as a historical manufacturer of luxury goods, including iconic men’s watches like the Cartier Santos and Cartier Tank.
Bernard Fornas, Cartier’s International CEO, confirmed that since 2005, Cartier has been creating new mechanical watches for men. The brand developed in-house movements not only to position itself among top luxury watchmakers like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Piaget but also to reflect Cartier’s signature creativity and design excellence.
High-end Mechanical Watches
Cartier understood that men who are interested in ‘better watches’ are more knowledgeable and care deeply about movement quality. To cater to these consumers, Cartier launched the ‘Collection Privée, Cartier Paris’ series in 1998. This collection featured limited edition watches housed in classic Cartier cases like the Santos and Tank, powered by high-quality mechanical calibers made by Cartier.
Highlights of Cartier
Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon (2007)
In 2007, Cartier introduced the Flying Tourbillon Calibre 9452MC, their first movement to receive the Geneva Seal. Initially placed in a larger 47mm Ballon Bleu case, Cartier later released more wearable 40mm Rotonde and Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon models.
Calibre de Cartier (2011)
In 2011, Cartier launched the thin automatic Calibre 1904MC, with a 48-hour power reserve. The first watch to feature this movement was the ‘Calibre de Cartier’. The 1904MC became the foundation for many of Cartier’s Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar movements.
Cartier Diver
The Cartier Diver is the brand’s first dive watch, also powered by the Calibre 1904MC. Remarkably, it’s the slimmest diver watch in the world, with a case size of 42mm and a height of just 11mm. Compared to the Rolex Sea-Dweller at 17.68mm and the Rolex Submariner at 12.5mm, the Cartier Diver stands out for its sleek design. Its unidirectional, self-lubricating bezel is coated with ADLC, a material harder than steel, and the sapphire crystal is 1.2mm thicker, ensuring water resistance up to 300 meters.
Rotonde Annual Calendar
The Rotonde Annual Calendar, powered by the in-house Calibre 9908MC, features a Grande Date and showcases Cartier’s expertise in complicated movements. It allows wearers to adjust the watch through the crown, requiring only one correction per year.
Santos Dumont Skeleton
The Santos Dumont Skeleton was the second watch to feature the 9612MC mechanical skeleton calibre. This striking watch is available in pink or white gold, or ADLC-coated titanium, with dimensions of 38.7mm x 47.4mm.
Rotonde Grande Complication (2010 & 2015)
First introduced in 2010, the Rotonde Grande Complication was re-released in 2015 with refinements, keeping the same dial color and case. However, it became an entirely different watch, featuring a Flying Tourbillon, Minute Repeater, and Perpetual Calendar. Powered by the automatic skeletonized Calibre 9406MC and a double platinum micro-rotor, this masterpiece also earned the prestigious Geneva Seal.
From the standard Calibre 1904MC to the high-end 9406MC movement, Cartier has created an impressive collection of nearly 40 different calibers since 2007. For anyone passionate about luxury watchmaking, Cartier’s achievements are certainly worth attention
