Audemars Piguet (AP) is a top name in the world of luxury watches. Since 1875, this Swiss brand has been known for making watches that combine expert craftsmanship with beautiful design. Whether you’re an experienced watch collector or just starting to explore high-end watches, learning about AP’s history, craftsmanship, and unique collections is essential before making a purchase.
This simple guide will take you through AP’s famous collections, give you pricing insights, and offer important tips to help you make the right choice. Whether you’re interested in the classic Royal Oak, the bold Offshore, or the cutting-edge Royal Oak Concept, this guide will help you feel confident in your decision. Let’s explore Audemars Piguet and what you need to know before buying.
A Legacy of Swiss Excellence: The History of Audemars Piguet
Few watch brands can showcase a heritage as rich as Audemars Piguet. With over 145 years of history, the company remains family-owned, preserving its values and continuing to innovate while maintaining the highest standards of traditional Swiss watchmaking. This commitment to quality and creativity has made AP one of the “Holy Trinity” of Swiss watchmakers, alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.
Key Historical Milestones:
- 1892: Audemars Piguet introduced the world’s first-minute repeater wristwatch, showcasing their technical prowess.
- 1921: The brand created the first jumping-hour wristwatch, pushing boundaries in time display.
- 1957: AP launched the world’s thinnest wristwatch movement, reaffirming its dedication to innovation.
- 1972: The iconic Royal Oak was born, designed by Gérald Genta. This groundbreaking model revolutionized the watch industry by introducing the concept of the luxury sports watch.
- 1993: The introduction of the Royal Oak Offshore further cemented AP’s legacy in luxury sports watches.
The brand’s dedication to both traditional watchmaking and cutting-edge innovation continues to make Audemars Piguet a respected name in the luxury watch industry.
Understanding Audemars Piguet Collections
Audemars Piguet offers a diverse range of collections, each showcasing unique features, craftsmanship, and appeal. Here’s a closer look at the most important collections you need to know.
The Iconic Royal Oak
The Royal Oak, launched in 1972, is arguably the most recognizable model in Audemars Piguet’s catalog. Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, it was the first luxury sports watch crafted in stainless steel—a bold move that changed the landscape of luxury watches forever.
Design and Features:
- Octagonal Bezel: The most distinguishing feature of the Royal Oak is its octagonal bezel secured with exposed screws, a revolutionary design at the time.
- “Tapisserie” Dial: The intricate guilloché pattern on the dial adds texture and elegance, elevating the design.
- Integrated Bracelet: Unlike traditional watches with separate straps, the Royal Oak features a fully integrated bracelet that seamlessly blends into the case.
- Slim Profile: Despite being a sports watch, the Royal Oak maintains a slim and sophisticated silhouette, making it suitable for both casual and formal wear.
Key Models:
- Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin
- A tribute to the original 1972 model, revered for its minimalistic and ultra-thin design.
- Price: $50,000 – $100,000 depending on the material (stainless steel, gold, or platinum).
- Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph
- Features a chronograph complication, adding functionality without compromising the iconic design.
- Price: $25,000 – $50,000.
- Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
- A highly complicated timepiece showcasing a perpetual calendar, moon phase, and day/date functions.
- Price: $80,000 – $200,000+.
Royal Oak Offshore
The Royal Oak Offshore, introduced in 1993, is a bolder and more rugged version of the Royal Oak. Designed for those who prefer a larger, more aggressive wrist presence, the Offshore is synonymous with luxury sports watches that make a statement.
Design Highlights:
- Oversized Case: Offshore models feature cases that range from 42mm to 48mm, making them ideal for larger wrists or those seeking a bolder aesthetic.
- Thick Bezel and Bold Design: The bezel is thicker and more robust compared to the original Royal Oak, offering a rugged, athletic look.
- Strap Variations: Available in rubber or leather straps, emphasizing the collection’s sporty and versatile nature.
- Chronograph Complications: Many Offshore models include a chronograph, ideal for timing sports events or adding a dynamic feature to the timepiece.
Pricing:
The Royal Oak Offshore typically starts around $30,000 for simpler models and can exceed $100,000 for limited editions or more complex versions like the Offshore Diver.
The Code 11.59 Collection
In 2019, Audemars Piguet took a bold step with the introduction of the Code 11.59 collection, a modern, versatile line that departed from the iconic Royal Oak design. With a focus on sophisticated craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics, Code 11.59 was designed for a new generation of collectors.
Features:
- Round Case: A departure from the angular design of the Royal Oak, Code 11.59 features a more traditional round case with a modern twist.
- Double-Curved Sapphire Crystal: The unique crystal design adds depth and dimension to the dial, creating a striking visual effect.
- Advanced Movements: This collection houses some of AP’s most intricate movements, including flyback chronographs, tourbillons, and perpetual calendars.
Pricing:
- Prices range between $40,000 and $150,000, depending on the complexity of the model and the materials used.
Royal Oak Concept: Cutting-Edge Design and Technology
For those who seek avant-garde watchmaking, the Royal Oak Concept line offers some of the most futuristic and technically advanced timepieces in Audemars Piguet’s catalog. These watches showcase cutting-edge materials like carbon fiber, titanium, and ceramic, combined with ultra-complex movements.
Key Features:
- Futuristic Aesthetic: Aggressive, bold designs that appeal to collectors looking for something beyond the traditional.
- High Complications: Featuring complications such as tourbillons, minute repeaters, and GMT functions.
- Innovative Materials: Lightweight, durable materials like titanium and ceramic set these watches apart from other luxury timepieces.
Pricing:
Starting at $200,000, these models can exceed $1 million, depending on the complexity of the movement and the materials used.
Factors That Affect Audemars Piguet Pricing
Understanding what influences the price of an Audemars Piguet watch is crucial for making a smart investment. Here are some key factors:
- Material:
- Stainless Steel models tend to be the most affordable, starting around $20,000.
- Precious metals like rose gold, yellow gold, and platinum significantly increase the price.
- Rare materials like ceramic and titanium are more expensive due to their durability and lightweight properties.
- Complications:
- Basic models with time-only movements start around $20,000.
- Complicated movements like tourbillons or perpetual calendars can push prices well over $100,000.
- Rarity and Limited Editions:
- Limited edition or discontinued models are highly sought after on the secondary market, often fetching premium prices.
Tips for Buying an Audemars Piguet Watch
When purchasing an Audemars Piguet, it’s important to follow these tips to ensure you get an authentic timepiece at a fair price.
- Buy from Authorized Dealers:
Ensure your watch is authentic by purchasing from an authorized dealer. You’ll also benefit from a warranty and after-sales service. However, be prepared for waiting lists, especially for popular models like the Royal Oak. - Consider the Pre-Owned Market:
If you’re searching for a discontinued or rare model, buying from the secondary market may be your best option. Always verify the reputation of the seller and request authenticity papers and the watch’s service history. - Verify Authenticity:
For pre-owned purchases, ask for original papers, a certificate of authenticity, and proof of the watch’s service history. Some platforms, like Chrono24, offer services to protect buyers from counterfeit products.
Final Thoughts: Is an Audemars Piguet Watch Worth It?
Owning an Audemars Piguet is not just about telling the time—it’s about owning a piece of horological history. With timeless designs, impeccable craftsmanship, and a legacy of innovation, Audemars Piguet watches are more than just accessories; they are investments that often appreciate over time.
Whether you are drawn to the sporty elegance of the Royal Oak or the futuristic aesthetics of the Royal Oak Concept, there’s an AP model for every collector’s taste. With proper care, these watches not only maintain their value but can become cherished heirlooms for future generations.
