When we talk about Patek Philippe, there’s always more beneath the surface. While the brand may appear understated, most of its timepieces are driven by highly sophisticated complications. However, there’s even more to this iconic name that many may not know. Patek Philippe watches are often considered excellent investment pieces. In this piece, we’ll focus on one of the most renowned models—the Patek Philippe Nautilus.
History of the Nautilus
Interestingly, the history of the Patek Philippe Nautilus is closely tied to another legendary timepiece—the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The making of the Royal Oak revolutionized stainless steel luxury watches, inspiring Patek Philippe to create its own premium sports watch, crafted with exceptional precision and finish. And here’s where the story gets fascinating: Who was behind Patek Philippe’s bold new design?
It was none other than Gerald Genta, the same visionary who created the Royal Oak. In a 2009 interview, Genta recounted that he came up with the iconic Nautilus design while dining in a restaurant. Noticing some Patek Philippe executives seated nearby, he spontaneously asked the waiter for a piece of paper. Within minutes, while observing the Patek executives, Genta sketched the Nautilus—an image that would soon transform the future of Patek Philippe.
That quick five-minute sketch went on to make history for the brand.
Initial Nautilus Design
The design was reminiscent of a porthole, featuring a solid, patent back case and a monobloc middle case. The notable octagonal bezel, secured by four lateral screws, ensures water resistance. Each of the eight sides of the bezel forms a perfect arc of a circle, adding a refined detail that enhances the overall aesthetic of the watch.
Original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1
1976
The original Patek Philippe Nautilus was introduced in 1976, featuring a striking black dial adorned with horizontal bars in varying shades of blue. It showcased luminous hands and a date window positioned at 3 o’clock. The cohesive bracelet with a folding clasp added to the watch’s character. While the design did not offer exceptional water resistance, the wide lugs with lateral ears provided added security.
Known as the ‘Jumbo,’ the Nautilus Ref. 3700/1 measured a generous 42mm in stainless steel and boasted a remarkably slim profile, with a height of approximately 7.60mm. It was powered by the Calibre 28-255 C Automatic movement.
1978
In 1978, Patek Philippe introduced a similar model featuring a ribbed white dial. Later, in 2012, the luxury brand included the white dial Nautilus in its catalogue.
1980
Good news for women, as Patek Philippe finally launched the Nautilus Ref. 4700. A year later, an alternative to the large Ref. 3700/1 was introduced: the Ref. 3800/1A, which featured a smaller diameter of 37.5mm. Watch enthusiasts embraced the Ref. 3800/1A for its central seconds hand and the new Calibre 335 SC.
1998
In 1998, Patek Philippe released the Ref. 3710/1A, which included a minor complication with a small date feature. The black dial was prominently marked with Roman numerals and included a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Powered by Calibre 330 SC, this watch came in a 42mm case with a thickness of 8mm.
2005
The Ref. 3712 debuted in 2005, featuring an analog date, moon phases, and a power reserve indicator. It was powered by a gold micro-rotor with the Automatic 240 PS movement, and the sapphire crystal showcased the intricate caliber. Unfortunately, this model was discontinued after just one year.
2006
After 30 long years, Patek Philippe delighted fans with a revamped model, the Ref. 5711/1A, featuring a 43mm case and powered by Calibre 324 SC. The Ref. 5711/1A is perhaps the most celebrated addition to the Patek Philippe catalogue, showcasing a three-part case and a sapphire crystal that provides a clear view of the movement.
The Ref. 5711/1A featured refined curvature for better alignment with the bezel and enlarged the size of the screw-down crown. The striking blue tones on the black dial were accentuated, and Patek Philippe’s logo appeared near the 12 o’clock indices in a new font.
In 2006, Patek Philippe also introduced three new models:
- Ref. 5712 (the successor to 3712), which featured several dial enhancements, including a deeper blue tone, a new orientation for the date numbers (from 9 to 23), a larger date and moon phase counter, slimmer hands, and four small red dots to indicate the power reserve.
- Ref. 5980, which came with a new chronograph automatic movement housed in a 44mm case.
- Ref. 5800, a slimmer version of the Nautilus measuring 38.4mm in width.
2010
The Nautilus Ref. 5726 was launched in 2010, featuring an annual calendar complication. This model was the first stainless steel Patek Philippe to offer such a feature, powered by Calibre 324 S QA LU 24H.
2014
At BaselWorld 2014, Patek Philippe unveiled the Nautilus Ref. 5990/1A, also known as the Travel Time Chronograph, which features dual time functionality and a column-wheel flyback chronograph. This model exhibited a distinct design change with two pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock and additional push correctors at 9 o’clock.
The dial maintained the classic Nautilus aesthetic with a horizontal print. Day and night indicators for local and home time were positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock, and two sub-dials added to the watch’s allure, complemented by gold hands and applied hour markers.
2016
To celebrate its 40th anniversary, Patek Philippe introduced two new references:
2. Three-hand Ref.5711/1P in Platinum
Patek Philippe released just 700 pieces of the Ref. 5711/1P 40th Anniversary limited edition, made from Platinum 950. This model boasts a width of 44mm, making it twice the size of the original 40mm version, with a height of 8.3mm.
The dial of the Ref. 5711/1P is a special anniversary edition, showcasing the signature Nautilus horizontal embossing. It features a dark blue hue with a gradual color gradient from the center to the edges, beautifully complementing the platinum tone.
3. Flyback Chronograph Ref.5796/1G in White Gold
The Ref. 5796/1G is the second anniversary model featuring a self-winding flyback chronograph. Patek Philippe released only 1,300 pieces of this limited edition watch, which comes in a large case with a 44mm diameter and a height of 12.16mm.
The larger design of the timepiece provides an enhanced view of the chronograph mono-counter at 6 o’clock. The mono-counter features three concentric scales: a minute counter from 31 to 60 (inner), 1 to 30 (middle), and a 12-hour counter (outer).
Overall, both models showcase a blue-toned dial adorned with 12 applied hour markers made of white gold and diamonds, along with anniversary inscriptions.
2018
In 2018, Patek Philippe unveiled one of its most prestigious models, the Ref. 5740/1G-001, featuring a Perpetual Calendar Complication. This model is popularly known as the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar. As Patek Philippe’s slimmest creation, it boasts a case height of just 8.42mm. The architecture showcases polished edges and bridges, while the sapphire crystal display allows the wearer to vividly admire its beauty.
The vertically satin-finished surfaces of the bezel enhance the design, creating a pleasing contrast with the polished chamfers. The slightly raised dial features the same rich blue hue as the Nautilus’s 40th-anniversary edition, complete with a typical Nautilus horizontal imprint.
The three sub-dials are seamlessly integrated into the faintly rounded octagon of the dial, displaying:
- Day of the week & 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock
- Month & Leap year cycle at 3 o’clock
- Date & Moon phases at 6 o’clock, with the moon phase slightly larger than the others.
2019
After the prevalence of white and black dials, Patek Philippe finally launched the Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A Annual Calendar with a striking blue dial at BaselWorld 2019. Watch enthusiasts consider the horizontal embossing and the subtle color graduation from blue to black the perfect contrast against the steel case. This model combines sportiness and style with a 40.5mm case.
The dial displays the date, day, month, moon phases, and a 24-hour indicator. Thanks to the broad minute and hour hands with luminous coating, legibility is excellent both day and night.
Beginning:
After all the hype and excitement, Patek Philippe decided to discontinue its most desirable model, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A steel model, in 2021. However, the watch certainly deserved a proper farewell, and Patek Philippe made sure to deliver. They launched the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014 featuring an Olive Green Sunburst dial.
This new olive green hue had never appeared in Patek Philippe’s catalogue before, and the dial showcased a distinct sunburst finish that immediately captivated watch enthusiasts! The fresh green color offers a striking contrast against the luminescent hour and minute markers in white gold. The model features a 40mm x 8.3mm case and is powered by the Calibre 26-330 S C movement, with a sapphire crystal providing a clear view of the beautiful movement within.
End:
To the delight of watch collectors, Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 towards the end of 2021. They produced only 170 pieces of this limited edition to celebrate the 170th anniversary of Patek’s partnership with Tiffany & Co.
Referred to as Ref. 5711/1A-018, this unique model comes in stainless steel, with the standout feature being the Tiffany-signed dial in its striking blue color. A few days after its launch, Patek sold all 170 pieces at a New York Watch Auction held by Phillips, achieving a 100% sell-through rate.
So, now you know a little more about Patek Philippe, don’t you? As you can see from the history mentioned above, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A has consistently enjoyed the spotlight—and there are solid reasons to back that.
7 Reasons Why The Ref.5711/1A Is So Valuable
1. Quality
It goes without saying that Patek Philippe’s creations epitomize prestige and quality in both design and functionality. Experts dedicate months, even years, to crafting a typical Patek Philippe timepiece. The brand follows strict protocols to ensure that every watch is truly exceptional.
2. Prestige
The name ‘Patek Philippe’ itself signifies sophistication, class, and refinement. With its rich history and distinctive watch designs, it’s nearly impossible not to recognize a Patek Philippe watch from afar.
3. Scarcity
Patek Philippe regulates its production rigorously. The brand reportedly manufactures around 50,000 to 70,000 watches in a given period, with 75% being mechanical and 25% quartz. No specific model is produced in large quantities, resulting in a true scarcity in the market, with many willing to wait years to acquire one.
4. Versatility
If any luxury brand truly embodies versatility, it’s Patek Philippe, particularly the Ref. 5711/1A. Whether paired with a suit, a polo shirt, or shorts for a day at the beach, this watch is always a perfect fit! Initially launched as a luxury sports watch, it has since diversified its appeal.
5. Notable
The Ref. 5711/1A has indeed inspired an entire collection and stands as one of Patek’s most celebrated creations (you know which one). This watch will always hold a significant place in the brand’s history, as well as in the hearts of watch enthusiasts and the world of horology.
6. Hype
The level of excitement surrounding the Ref. 5711/1A in the watch community is simply astounding! Unlike any other brand, reports indicate that the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 is the most hyped watch. This makes it yet another reason to keep an eye on this model!
7. Investment Worth
This isn’t just a casual observation—it’s a fact! While you certainly buy a watch because you love it and want to own it, the investment potential cannot be overlooked. Only two watch brands, Rolex and Patek Philippe, command high demand in the pre-owned market. So, should you ever decide to sell your Patek Philippe, you can expect to receive a substantial return.
Final Thoughts
After more than 40 years since its launch, Patek Philippe still stands out as one of the most respected luxury watch brands in the world. The strong demand for these watches is impressive and is likely to keep growing in the future. Whether you choose to invest in a Patek Philippe watch or simply admire its beauty, the decision is entirely up to you.
