Some Rolex watches are surprisingly considered underrated in the pre-owned market.
It might seem hard to believe for a brand as universally recognized as Rolex, known for its watches retaining value better than most. However, it’s true.
If you dig through the archives, certain pre-owned Rolex models have remained relative bargains for various reasons. Perhaps they weren’t linked to high-profile figures, or maybe Rolex produced the model in large quantities, leaving many iterations available in the market.
Interestingly, these undervalued watches are unlikely to stay that way forever. The vintage Rolex market continues to grow stronger each year, as collectors seek out more unique and eccentric pieces for their distinct features.
#1. Rolex Milgauss Reference 116400
The Rolex Milgauss is often categorized among the less fashionable models, much like the Air-King.
Originally designed with engineers and scientists in mind, the Milgauss has recently gained new attention due to its updated aesthetic and exceptional antimagnetic properties.
Launched in the 1950s, when models like the Submariner, Day-Date, and GMT-Master were already established, the Milgauss initially struggled to capture attention, leading Rolex to discontinue it in 1988. However, the brand revived the model in 2007 with reference 116400.
This modern Milgauss, featuring a 40mm case, was released in three versions. The white and black dial versions had standard sapphire crystals, while a second black dial version featured a unique green-tinted crystal. In 2014, Rolex replaced the white and black versions with another green-sapphire model, this time showcasing a vibrant electric blue dial.
Known as the Z-Blue dial, it combines an array of colors, including an orange minute track and a lightning bolt-shaped seconds hand, adding a dynamic touch to the watch’s design.
#2. Rolex Submariner Reference 16610
The Rolex Submariner is undeniably one of the most iconic dive watches ever created.
The Submariner reference 16610 is often regarded as the “last of the best,” representing the classic design before Rolex introduced significant updates. In 2010, the brand unveiled the Super-Case Submariner in stainless steel, marking a shift in the collection’s design.
As a result, the ref. 16610 is highly coveted by vintage collectors. Despite its appeal, this model remains somewhat underrated in the market.
Released in the late 1980s, the ref. 16610 is powered by the Calibre 3135 movement, one of Rolex’s longest-produced and most reliable movements. The watch features a case made from Rolex’s patented 904L stainless steel and an aluminum bezel insert.
While many examples of this model are available in the pre-owned market, the ref. 16610 is currently undervalued. However, this won’t last forever—models in excellent working condition will become rarer over time, and their value is expected to increase accordingly.
#3. Rolex Air-King Reference 5500
The Rolex Air-King 5500 stands as one of the most underrated models in the brand’s lineup.
Despite being in production for an impressive 37 years, it is often referred to as the “forgotten Rolex.” Introduced as part of the Air-King’s fourth generation in 1957, the reference 5500 showcases a 34mm steel case and timeless design.
The dial options include silver, white, gray, and blue, all complemented by baton indexes and simple stick hands. Throughout its nearly four decades of production, Rolex equipped the ref. 5500 with two different calibres: the Calibre 1530 and Calibre 1520. Notably, its dial is engraved with either “Precision” or “Super Precision,” rather than the usual “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified.”
The Air-King 5500 is a durable yet elegant timepiece with a clean, vintage aesthetic that has stood the test of time. Though often undervalued, it remains a captivating vintage model, and its value is expected to rise as collectors take notice.
